Sapphire Partial Band Bra Pattern
The ever-so-popular Ruby bra pattern has a little sister. Introducing the Sapphire partial Band Bra Pattern. The Sapphire must be used with underwires as this is part of the engineering of this lovely bra. Like the Ruby, this pattern features an off-set vertical seamed cup for the roundest styling, and a shortened upper cup for maximum lift. Our testers were amazed at the push-up look this pattern gives. The Sapphire Partial Band Bra Pattern has been specially designed to use with foam lining, therefore enabling you to use virtually any stretch fabric over it as a cup cover. It can even be made without foam, using low-stretch fabrics or fabrics lined with Sheer Cup Lining.
The sizing for the Sapphire is a bit different from other bra patterns, in that we use the Bottom Cup Depth (BCD) to determine the size of the cup. This is the measurement from the wire line at the base of the cup up to the location of the apex. It is much more accurate than relying on Ready-to-wear bra sizing, which can differ from company to company. Determine your BCD by measuring your best fitting bra between these two points. All cup sizes from 3.0 to 6.0 are included in the pattern. Combine these 13 cup depths with 1 of 8 band sizes from 26″ (65 cm) through 40″ (100 cm) to make the Ruby Full Band Bra Pattern size range equivalent to over 100 unique bra sizes.
For your convenience we also stock the Ruby Bra Findings Kit which will also make the Sapphire Bra. In it we include all the finishing materials listed here except the fabric, foam, underwires and the pattern.
Required Materials for Sapphire:
0.3 m of Cut & Sew Foam Lining (only if using foam lining)
0.5 m of stretchy fabric to cover the cups (if using foam lining)
0.5 m of stable fabric such as Duoplex or Sheer Cup Lining for the cups (if not using foam lining) and for the frame
0.3 metres of Power Net for the back band
0.7 m or less of 3/8″ finished width Fold-over Binding
1.1 m or less of ½” Plush-Back/Band Elastic for bottom band
1.2 metres of ⅜” Plush Back/Band Elastic for top band
0.5 metres of 3/8″ wide strip of stabilizer for the neckline
1.0 – 1.2 m of of Strap Elastic 5/8″ wide for BCD sizes 3.0-4.5 and 3/4″ wide for sizes 4.75 to 6.0
1.0-1.2 m of double face satin ribbon, 5/8″ or 3/4″ to use as a stabilizer under the front part of the strap elastic
2 sliders and 4 rings width to match the strap elastic, either 5/8″ or 3/4″ wide
1 metre of Underwire Casing
1 Hook & Eye Set for the back (2 hooks high for sizes 3.0-4.5 and 3 hooks high for sizes 4.5-6.0)
1 Bow Embellishment for the front (optional)
1 set of Underwires according to the chart below
| Bottom Cup Depth | Usually Fits North American Bra Sizes | Accepts Wire Sizes |
| 3.0″ (7.5 cm) | 36A, 34B, 32 C | WR-34, WL-32 |
| 3.25″ (8.1 cm) | 38A, 36B, 34C | WR-36, WL-34 |
| 3.5″ (8.8 cm) | 40A, 38B, 36C, 32D | WR-38, WL-36 |
| 3.75″ (9.4 cm) | 40B, 38C, 34D, 30E | WR-40, WL-38, WX-36 |
| 4.0″ (10 cm) | 42B, 40C, 36D, 32E | WR-42, WL-40, WX-38 |
| 4.25″ (10.6 cm) | 44B, 42C, 38D, 34E, 30F | WR-44, WL-42, WX-40 |
| 4.5″ (11.2 cm) | 44C, 40D, 36E, 32F | WR-44, WL-42, WX-40 |
| 4.75″ (11.9 cm) | 42D, 38E, 34F, 30G | WR-46, WL-44, WX-42 |
| 5.0″ (12.5 cm) | 44D, 40E, 36F, 32G | WR-46, WL-44, WX-42 |
| 5.25″ (13.3 cm) | 42E, 38F, 34G, 30H | WR-48, WL-46, WX-44 |
| 5.5″ (13.8 cm) | 44E, 40F, 36G, 32H | WR-48, WL-46, WX-44 |
| 5.75″ (14.4 cm) | 42F, 38G, 34H | WR-50, WL-48, WX-46 |
| 6.0″ (15 cm) | 44F, 40G, 36H | WR-50, WL-48, WX-46 |
WR – Regular Underwires
WL – Long Underwires
WX – Extra Long Underwires